Thickness planer---Do I need it?

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  • rcp612
    Established Member
    • May 2005
    • 358
    • Mount Vernon, OH, USA.
    • Bosch 4100-09

    Thickness planer---Do I need it?

    Should I be looking for a thickness planer if I don't buy lumber except at the BORG or Lowes? Some of my findings cite the use of a planer for finishing otherwise un-finished lumber. Some other findings apparently just use it to make thinner lumber. But my concern is that all pieces in a project need to be the same thickness for the best results. Would that be true or am I overlooking something? I've just checked all the poplar, oak, and pine boards in my shop and none are actually 3/4" thick. Then it hit me that maybe that was causing my grief when assembling a project.
    Do like you always do,,,,,,Get what you always get!!
  • Jeffrey Schronce
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 3822
    • York, PA, USA.
    • 22124

    #2
    Are all your pieces > 3/4"? Milling below 3/4" may cause you additional headaches if you are working with plans.

    A thickness planer will give you your desired results of consistent boards. However, if you are going to buy a thickness planer, then why not buy wood in the rough for less than half of what you are paying at HD or Lowes and plane it yourself?

    As a side note, how are you storing your lumber? Could it be possible that you are bowing or twisting the lumber in storage? When I used to buy hardwood from Lowes I found it to be pretty consistent over all.

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 21193
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Originally posted by rcp612
      Should I be looking for a thickness planer if I don't buy lumber except at the BORG or Lowes? Some of my findings cite the use of a planer for finishing otherwise un-finished lumber. Some other findings apparently just use it to make thinner lumber. But my concern is that all pieces in a project need to be the same thickness for the best results. Would that be true or am I overlooking something? I've just checked all the poplar, oak, and pine boards in my shop and none are actually 3/4" thick. Then it hit me that maybe that was causing my grief when assembling a project.
      Yes, that's right, none of those dimesnioned lumber at the big box stores are uniform or consistent thickness. If you want precision woodwrking then you need to thcikness your own stock. It's important to have boards for a project flat, square, straight and uniform width and thickness if you want it to really appear like a woodworking project and not a carpentry project. that requires you to be able to control those things and it means tickness planer and maybe a jointer. That said so many boardsa at the box store can't even be saved with planing and jointing they'd be too thin after making them straight and falt, haha.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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      • Knottscott
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 3815
        • Rochester, NY.
        • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

        #4
        You don't need a planer any more than you need a TS, BS, DP, router, or jointer, but it sure makes life alot easier and is the most efficient way to work stock to a final thickness. With a jig, a planer can also be used to flatten cupped or slightly twisted boards.
        Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

        Comment

        • John Hunter
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2004
          • 2034
          • Lake Station, IN, USA.
          • BT3000 & BT3100

          #5
          I would be lost without one.
          John Hunter

          Comment

          • Doug Jones
            Established Member
            • Oct 2004
            • 332
            • Indiana
            • Delta 36-444

            #6
            Do you need one? No, but it sure makes woodworking a bit easier. I wonder what I did before I had one, hmmmmm.

            Comment

            • Wood_workur
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2005
              • 1914
              • Ohio
              • Ryobi bt3100-1

              #7
              If you buy lumber just from the borg that would be justifiation for a jointer.
              Alex

              Comment

              • Pappy
                The Full Monte
                • Dec 2002
                • 10453
                • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 (x2)

                #8
                Is it a tool you don't have?

                Are you a guy?

                Of course you need one!
                Don, aka Pappy,

                Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                Fools because they have to say something.
                Plato

                Comment

                • Hoover
                  Veteran Member
                  • Mar 2003
                  • 1273
                  • USA.

                  #9
                  If you are assuming that every stick of lumber you buy is S4S, then no.
                  If you live in a reality based environment, then yes you need a planer, and a jointer as well.
                  Close enough works for carpentry, not woodworking.
                  No good deed goes unpunished

                  Comment

                  • drumpriest
                    Veteran Member
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 3338
                    • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
                    • Powermatic PM 2000

                    #10
                    Really, I think the question should be "should I buy my lumber at the borg or lowes", and the answer is a definate NO. You are paying out the nose for them to thickness that lumber, and they don't even do a good job of it. You can get a good jointer and planer, and buy rougher lumber, you will make money in the end.

                    I personally buy S3S oak at 13/16" for 2-3$ a bf, you can get it cheaper if it's truly rough cut. HD charges you about 8$ a board foot. You can see how quickly those tools will pay for themselves.

                    BORG plywood isn't bad, but that's all I buy there, wood wise. Besides, you might be interested in trying some wood other than oak and poplar...
                    Keith Z. Leonard
                    Go Steelers!

                    Comment

                    • rcp612
                      Established Member
                      • May 2005
                      • 358
                      • Mount Vernon, OH, USA.
                      • Bosch 4100-09

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Hoover
                      If you are assuming that every stick of lumber you buy is S4S, then no.
                      If you live in a reality based environment, then yes you need a planer, and a jointer as well.
                      Close enough works for carpentry, not woodworking.

                      Now I guess there's a second question. How good (read expensive) of a planer do I need? I make small projects mostly and possibly 1 or 2 large pieces a year. I think I would only need it for the large items like a table, desk, chest and the like and the budget is a concern.
                      Also, has anyone used a sled like I saw David Thiel using to help prevent snipe? It seems that the reviews I've read all claim snipe is the biggest problem with low cost planers.
                      Do like you always do,,,,,,Get what you always get!!

                      Comment

                      • Jeffrey Schronce
                        Veteran Member
                        • Nov 2005
                        • 3822
                        • York, PA, USA.
                        • 22124

                        #12
                        I highly, highly recommend the Ridgid planer. $380 with a life time warranty, infeed/outfeed tables, stand, dust chute, extra set of knives. Knives are very easy to set and are indexed. Usually is in the top of all test along with the DeWalt 735 (which is a LOT more expensive when you add infeed/outfeed tables, stand, extra knives, etc).

                        I sold mine when I bought a larger planer, however I kind of wished I kept the Ridgid for finishing as it did an excellent job, especially with sharp blades on figured wood.

                        http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gjl.0&MID=9876

                        Comment

                        • drumpriest
                          Veteran Member
                          • Feb 2004
                          • 3338
                          • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
                          • Powermatic PM 2000

                          #13
                          If you can find a closeout AP1300 you'll get great bang for your buck. Someone on the bargain forum found one for 100$. I got mine for 150$, havn't had any snipe problems.

                          The ridgid is a very nice planer, and the AP1300 is very similar to it. The dewalt gets top honors in the 13" and smaller catagory, but it's 500$. You can at times get it for around 450$, I think.
                          Keith Z. Leonard
                          Go Steelers!

                          Comment

                          • jabe
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2006
                            • 569
                            • Hilo, Hawaii
                            • Ryobi BT3000 & Delta Milwaukee 10" tilting Table circular saw

                            #14
                            This month's (Nov) issue of WOOD magazine has a review of several brand of benchtop planers and articles on use & tune-ups for the planer. Uniform thickness of your wood is important when making wood joints so you can get that quality tight looking joints.

                            Comment

                            • Knottscott
                              Veteran Member
                              • Dec 2004
                              • 3815
                              • Rochester, NY.
                              • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                              #15
                              Originally posted by rcp612
                              Now I guess there's a second question. How good (read expensive) of a planer do I need? I make small projects mostly and possibly 1 or 2 large pieces a year. I think I would only need it for the large items like a table, desk, chest and the like and the budget is a concern.
                              Also, has anyone used a sled like I saw David Thiel using to help prevent snipe? It seems that the reviews I've read all claim snipe is the biggest problem with low cost planers.
                              Basic planers with fewer features like cutterhead lock or DC run about $200....Delta, Grizzly come to mind.

                              The Delta 22-580 and TP400, Ridgid 1300, DeWalt 734 and 735, and Makita 2012B run in the $300-$500 range depending on sales, etc. All are well proven and highly regarded....I tend to shop price between these. The 22-580 and DW735 have a 2-speed feature that I find useful on figured hardwoods.

                              I'm not sure where the new Ryobi 1301 stands, and sometimes the Hitachi has gone on sale dirt cheap and is worth looking at for < $200 or less.

                              http://www1.epinions.com/content_156115177092
                              Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

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