L6-15R Plug Installation

[emsmedic]

I'm in the process of finishing my basement and resurrecting my shop. I planned for the acquisition of a cyclone dust collector down the line and pulled wires for the 15A 220V NEMA L6-15R outlet the dust collector requires. But I ran into a little trouble when I tried to install the receptacle today.

I've installed 3-conductor w/ground romex from a double-pole 15A breaker at the panel (red power, black power, white neutral, bare ground). The receptacle (Hubbell Wiring Devices HBL4560) only has two screw terminals, both brass, and a separate ground screw. Both brass screw terminals have (2) push-in backwiring slots each. The extraordinarily detailed package instructions read:

"Connect conductors: Green or bare to green hex screw, white or gray to silver screw, black or red to brass screw." This makes sense, except.... there is no silver/neutral screw.

The Hubbell website (http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring...ces&PN=HBL4560) as proven less than helpful - I can find catalog pages and technical specifications, but no wiring diagrams or installation instructions. Any thoughts on what I've missed here?

[Slik Geek]

I've always installed with conduit, so I'm not experienced with Romex. It's not entirely clear what your question is, but I'm guessing that you aren't sure which wire goes to which terminal on the receptacle?

Attach the black wire to either of the brass terminals, the red to the other brass terminal, and the ground to the ground (green) screw. The white (neutral) wire will be unused. Put a wire nut on the white wire. The red and black wires should the wires that attach to your ganged breaker at the panel.

[Tom Slick]

I agree with slik geek, there is no neutral with 220v single phase. notice that your L6-15 plug only has 3 conductors, if it had 4 conductors it would be 3 phase. in the future you can save a few bucks by using regular 12-3 romex and putting some red electrical tape on each end of the white to signify that it is another hot leg but you don't even have to do that by code.

[emsmedic]

Thanks guys. I guess I'm just used to standard 110V wiring. I didn't have any idea the neutral wasn't necessary on a 220V.

I appreciate the help.

[Crash2510]

I agree with slik geek, there is no neutral with 220v single phase. Tom Slick

Not entirely true many are adding a neutral especially for dryers and ranges because of code.

[Tom Miller]

I agree with slik geek, there is no neutral with 220v single phase. Tom Slick

Not entirely true many are adding a neutral especially for dryers and ranges because of code.

The reason for the neutral in these cases, as I understand it, is that dryers and ranges, etc., have some components that run on 110V. (Especially true for newer appliances that simply have to have a digital clock. ) If you run a neutral, then you have 110 as well as 220 accessible to the appliance.

Regards,
Tom

[bthere]

Some tools also use the dual 120/240 voltage that you have available when the neutral line is run. One instance is a bandsaw with 240V motor and 120V work light. Another is a drum sander with 240V drum motor and 120V feed motor.

[Crash2510]

The reason for the neutral in these cases, as I understand it, is that dryers and ranges, etc., have some components that run on 110V. (Especially true for newer appliances that simply have to have a digital clock. ) If you run a neutral, then you have 110 as well as 220 accessible to the appliance.

Regards,
Tom

Yes I knew that.
I was just pointing out an example where a neutral would be necessary for a 240v application

sorry should have added this information

[Black wallnut]

I agree with slik geek, there is no neutral with 220v single phase. notice that your L6-15 plug only has 3 conductors, if it had 4 conductors it would be 3 phase. in the future you can save a few bucks by using regular 12-3 romex and putting some red electrical tape on each end of the white to signify that it is another hot leg but you don't even have to do that by code.

Which part exactly is not required by code? I ain't an electrician but I thought anytime you energized a white wire you had to mark it with red or black to show it is engerized. Please explain this.

[Tom Slick]

Which part exactly is not required by code? I ain't an electrician but I thought anytime you energized a white wire you had to mark it with red or black to show it is engerized. Please explain this.

I was making an assumption on that because none of the 220v stuff I have ever opened has had the ends of the white wires marked.

[Crash2510]

technically you are supposed to mark the white, but I have never met a inspector that cared except for marking them in the panel

[Black wallnut]

Finally after a half day of searching I have found my book on wiring. according to Wiring Simplified 40th edition By Richter, Schwan, Hartwell published by Park Publising, INC copywrite 2002 per NEC 200.7(C) the white can be used but must be re-identified as any color other than white or green wherever it is visable. To me this says both at the circuit breaker panel and any junction box or outlet box. IMHO there are very good reasons for this. Consider what happens if a later homeowner is not careful nor has a good knowledge of electric standards and connects a regular outlet to a 220v energized line because of only white black and bare copper at the outlet box.

[Tom Slick]

I agree completely with you, I always re-mark the white with a black piece of tape. I have also made the mistake of being that later homeowner coming along and wiring up a light to two hot legs, it was really bright!!

what I should have said in my original post is "I'm not even sure if you have to do that by code." it would have been less confusing.