Help!!!

[Bruce Cohen]

I need someone to tell me how to do the following:

I want to make a circular mortise on the top of the lid of my next jewelry box. The hole will be approx 1 1/2" in diameter and go only 2/3 of the way thru the top.

What I'm stuck with is how to get the bottom of the mortise to "flare" out so you can get a finger pull type pf purchase.

The following rather crude illustration hopefully shows what I'm trying to achieve.



The hole will be bored out using a forstner bit, but how do I get the "flare" or undercut. I guess there must be a router bit that does this, as I seen it done on drawer finger pulls.

Your help is necessary, in that I promised this box to my niece and nephew (to be) for their wedding. And if I can't deliver, my wife will use me for a moving target, or maybe coyote bait.

Bruce

[Bill in Buena Park]

Bruce,
There are different finger-pull specialty router bits - but would something simple like a dovetail bit suit your application?

[Uncle Cracker]

I'd use a template and a brass collar with a dovetail bit to cut the outer edge, then hollow out the remainder with a standard bit. Then, save the template for next time, marking the collar size and bit selection on it with a sharpie marker.

[LCHIEN]

I'd use a template and a brass collar with a dovetail bit to cut the outer edge, then hollow out the remainder with a standard bit. Then, save the template for next time, marking the collar size and bit selection on it with a sharpie marker.

yes, this is how i'd do it, you can use any bit that's larger at the bottom (with the router up) like a dovetail or a T-slot bit or door lip or finger pull to undercut the edge.
you might go to the MLCSWOOWDWORKINg.com page and look at the router bit profiles page to see what would work.

[cabinetman]

I would first machine the hole with the forstner to the depth you want. Then use a dovetail bit with a collar to guide on the hole size. Set the depth of the dovetail to the bottom of the mortise. You want a short step of flat to keep the edge in tact.
.

[JR]

I think the advice so far is close, but not perfect, Bruce.

Yes, use a forstner bit. Yes, use a dovetail bit and a collar, or even better, a <1/2" bearing. But you'll probably want to drive the forstner bit through a piece of MDF or plywood and into the lid. this will create a template for the collar/bearing to ride on. I don't think you'll have enough material on the side of the hole above the dovetail for a gollar or bearing to ride one if you don't do this.

JR

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey Guys,

Many thanks for your help and solutions to solving my problem.

Haven't got a chance to test any out, the box is still in the design stage and at this point, I'm not even sure if this is going to be the element to open the lid(s). The box will have to have a split or dual lid allowing two users to have their own compartment in one box.

I'll let you know what happens.

Somehow, I was hoping for a single router bit to make this cut, but I guess it only exists in my slightly damaged mind.

Bruce

[JR]

The dovetail bit can be used to hog out the hole if you want.

JR

[pelligrini]

Another way to possibly do it and to be able to use some other curved cutter profiles would be to cut the hole all the way through the top, and then laminate another piece of wood to the bottom of the lid. The laminated piece could also have some nice figure or be a contrasting wood that would be framed by the circular hole.

It could also be smaller around the edges of the top so it would fit down into the box. That way, you wouldn't need to work around any edge issues with differing grain, colors etc on the exposed box top.

[RayintheUK]

I go with pelligrini's method, using a dutchman inlay bit to insert it from below. That way you can make the inner chamfer on the top very easily.

Ray

[Bruce Cohen]

Another way to possibly do it and to be able to use some other curved cutter profiles would be to cut the hole all the way through the top, and then laminate another piece of wood to the bottom of the lid. The laminated piece could also have some nice figure or be a contrasting wood that would be framed by the circular hole.

It could also be smaller around the edges of the top so it would fit down into the box. That way, you wouldn't need to work around any edge issues with differing grain, colors etc on the exposed box top.

Now that sounds like a really nifty "work-a-round.

Thanks again. You guys are the best.

Now maybe someone can tell me the correct six numbers for tomorrow's lottery.

Bruce

[cabinetman]

This method:

I would first machine the hole with the forstner to the depth you want. Then use a dovetail bit with a collar to guide on the hole size. Set the depth of the dovetail to the bottom of the mortise. You want a short step of flat to keep the edge in tact.
.

I did a rough sketch below to show how it would look. Leaving a short flat vertical edge before creating the angle, will provide substantial thickness where fingers grab to minimize tear out or damage to a thin tapered edge, versus a straight edge. The drawing is not to scale.
.

[pelligrini]

I like the hole in the top idea of Bruce's and was trying to figure out how I'd do it on a project I've ben licking around in my head. I couldn't get the geometry to work out very well just using a dovetail bit and a collar bushing. The thickness of the collar bushing was throwing things off and the edge of the dovetail cutter would need to be very, very close to the collar. I was ending up with a pretty big flat bearing edge. It works better if I'd make a MDF template and use it with a collar bushing and dovetail bit. I wasn't too sure how'd the bottom of the hole would look like too. Sanding it after drilling and the dovetail bit wouldn't be easy. I'd still have an indention in the middle for my forstner bit point too.