hinge recommendation

[hermit]

I am making a shadow box type display case for a sports jersey. It will be fairly large, probably 36"t by 32" w or so. My problem is finding a hinge that would work for the front. I plan on making a frame for glass, but I don't want the side flush with box side when closed (think- face frame NOT flush on the outside of a cabinet, but mounted so the box edge is centered on the face frame). I want about an inch or so overhang. If I use a regular hinge (I was thinking piano type) then the door can only open to 90 deg., right? I don't want to use european kitchen type hinges. So any recommendations?

Thanks,
Todd

[cabinetman]

I am making a shadow box type display case for a sports jersey. It will be fairly large, probably 36"t by 32" w or so. My problem is finding a hinge that would work for the front. I plan on making a frame for glass, but I don't want the side flush with box side when closed (think- face frame NOT flush on the outside of a cabinet, but mounted so the box edge is centered on the face frame). I want about an inch or so overhang. If I use a regular hinge (I was thinking piano type) then the door can only open to 90 deg., right? I don't want to use european kitchen type hinges. So any recommendations?

Thanks,
Todd

Without a drawing it's a bit difficult to know exactly what you mean. So, here is what I suspect you're talking about.

You have a box with a back and an open front. For discussion I'll assume the leading edge is 3/4". You made a frame (like for a glass door) that you want to hinge off the end of the cabinet. If the end is 3/4" you want it to align towards the center of the frame. So, when hinged, the frame of the door could align several ways. So, your addressing this would help.

The outer edge could overhang the cabinet end, and the inner edge of the frame could overhang towards the inside of the cabinet. That arrangement would be like the door frame is centered on the edge.

Or, the door frame could hang over the edge on the outside and be flush with the inside edge of the cabinet.

I'm assuming that the box itself is frameless. A drawing of sorts would simplify your description. In many situations, a piano hinge will hinge the door, and how it is mounted and configured with the cabinet will determine its opening allowance. The downside to that hinge is there is no adjustment once totally installed.
.

[Mr__Bill]

The problem arises in thinking that the hinge must hinge next to the cabinet. If you use a hinge like those for a drop leaf table and put the hinge pin at the edge of the framed door then the door can swing a full 180 deg. I am not sure that the swag of a drop leaf hinge is the correct way or that the screw holes are beveled on the right side but the concept is the same.

Bill
on the Sunny Oregon Coast

[hermit]

Cabinetman: your first assumption is correct. I haven't made it yet, but the plan was to have an overhang on both sides of the door. I wanted to find a specialty hinge that would allow more than 90 deg. opening.

Mr Bill: I think I understand where you're going, but with my intended design, I dont think that hinge would work. The leafs are too long, I think.

Thanks again for the ideas,
Todd

Actually, now that I have had time to think a bit, Mr Bill, I think that may work. If I can find a hinge that would work on the 3/4" front of the cabinet.

[cabinetman]

Cabinetman: your first assumption is correct. I haven't made it yet, but the plan was to have an overhang on both sides of the door. I wanted to find a specialty hinge that would allow more than 90 deg. opening.

Todd

There are a few details to this design you should consider. First, the leading edge of the 3/4" should be edged with solid wood. It sounds like the size (36"H, 32"W) is pretty large for one door. You haven't said which way the door would be hinged (side to side - 36" edge), or top or bottom - 32" edge).

This case sounds like it could be a tabletop display to be viewed when it's on its back, or hung on a wall. In either case, the use of a piano hinge will likely not give you much more than 90 degrees of opening. The reason being that a 3/4" leaf on a piano hinge will allow the overhang to back around to the side of the cabinet. IOW, the knuckle (pin) would align on the edge of the case and that would be the pivot point. Any overhang will wind up at the outside of the case when rotated to an open position.

Also, the hinge would have to be surface mounted on the back of the frame, which would space the frame away from the leading edge of the cabinet. The only way the frame would open more than 90 degrees is if the knuckle (pin) lined up on the edge of the cabinet and on the edge of the frame. But, that wouldn't give you the overhang you want.

You would need a piano hinge with the leaves as wide as the 3/4" edge and the amount of overhang to get the pin out that far. AFIK, there aren't any for cabinet doors. Barrel hinges pose the same opening restrictions because of the overhang.
.

[Stytooner]

You could use simple offset hinges to do what you want.
There are several different types.
This type would work I think as long as you get then with the proper backset.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...s/00001569.jpg

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/files/N...nel_hinges.jpg

[Mr__Bill]

Actually, now that I have had time to think a bit, Mr Bill, I think that may work. If I can find a hinge that would work on the 3/4" front of the cabinet.

If the short side of the hinge is mounted on the back of the door with the knuckle at the edge of the door like a normal morticed hinge, then the long side can reach back to the frame. If you use the solid brass hinges then they can be cut off for length if necessary. You could do the same thing with strap or 'T' hinges and cut them for length.

HTH

Bill

[hermit]

Thanks again guys. Lee, I can't visualize how those would work. I will probably just go with the piano hinge. The cabinet is for wall display and wouldn't be opened much, so its probably a minor issue anyway.

Todd