Light Switch Covers

[JohnnyTest]

My wife and I am considering buying all new wood light cover switches. I would like to give a try making them. Has anyone made them before? Any suggestions, tips would be helpful.

I was thinking 1/4" wood, run it through the router to give an edge. The hardest part would be making the switch opening. I have a plunge router and would think that is the best way and then to use a chisel to square it up.

[Nick Keenan]

Sounds like a fun project and I'll be interested to see how it works out.

The ones I have seen for sale have a metal backing plate. I think you might have trouble with thin wood splitting otherwise. I could see routing out the back and putting in some sort of reinforcement -- maybe just a piece of 1/8" wood with the grain perpendicular.

In theory, switch plates are part of your wiring and need to be UL-approved in order for your wiring to be code-compliant. However, I see switch plates for sale all the time that do not have the UL seal, particularly designer ones. Make your own call.

Nick

[JohnnyTest]

Thanks for the info. I see them in the stores all the time, just like your talking about. I'm going to give these a whirl.
Here is some info I found that could be helpful.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=howT...ghtNavTools%20

[JohnnyTest]

Nick, what is the real need for that metal backing plate in terms of safety and code. At this point I'm more concerned with making something that will not burn down the house. I checked out the wood plates in home depot and they all seem to have them. And its not an item that one would just be able to buy, at least not from HD.
They use a 1/4" wood, and then route and 1/8" recess in the back for the metal plate.

[dkhoward]

Part of the reason for outlet and switch covers is to confine any hot or molten material from a short circuit which could occur in the box. The metal plate on the back of wooden switch and outlet covers is to provide a nonflammable surface inside the box. I am in the process of changing all the outlets and switches in my house to the designer square type rocker switches and it is almost impossible to find oversize or designer covers for these types of devices. I have considered maching my own from 1/4 material. I found some thin (1/32?) metal material that has an adhesive backing. I think it would be possible to cut this stuff to fit with shop shears and then simply peel and stick to the cover plate.

[Nick Keenan]

The short answer is that cover plates have to be UL-listed. If you make them, they're not. The longer answer is that I don't know what the UL requires, and it might be somewhat difficult to find out. I would imagine capable of containing an electrical fire is the main thing.

What about using a normal metal switch cover as your backing plate, and routing the wood to fit over it snugly, then glue it in place? Just thinking out loud.

[LarryG]

I guess I could call our electrical consultant and ask him about all this, but I think what's going on with the storebought covers you've seen is that the metal plate satisfies the code and the applied wood becomes mere decoration. You could probably use an approved plastic cover as a base too, but the metal plates are thinner ... with a plastic plate plus the wood applique, the switch toggle might not stick out far enough to operate it.

[JohnnyTest]

Good Info as usual. I was thinking along the same lines. I was thinking about flattening the original metal ones, or cutting them down some, and then just routing a recess in the back of the wood. Well if anyone else has any ideas they would be appreciated.

[JeffW]

I just wonder is you could veneer a regular plasic plate? I have some 1/42 jatoba that I may try it out on.

[JohnnyTest]

These are alot harder to make than they appear. Last night I made 2 single toggle switches. One out of 3/8" stock and one out of 1/4" stock. The 1.4" one is complete and was easy to make the hole in, using a chisel.

2 problems that I ran into and haven't had time to fix is that 1) a recess needs to be routed on the back so that the plates are flush and dont contact that screws of the switch. I am working on a jig to use with the router that will guide it where the recess needs to be. 2) I need to come up with a way to make the hole for the switch. I don't know of anyway to make a perfect rectangle cutout. I am going to try a router jig and see if I can use a small straight bit and plunge it out.

Any help or ideas with the second problem would help.

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by JohnnyTest

2) I need to come up with a way to make the hole for the switch. I don't know of anyway to make a perfect rectangle cutout.

My guess is that for this small a scale you'd get the best results by drilling a pilot hole, threading a scrollsaw blade through it, and cutting the slot. Or you could drill a very small hole at all four corners and connect the dots.

The reason I'm guessing is because I don't own a scrollsaw, but I know that this is exactly the kind of job at which they excel. And even if you have a very steady hand, you might still need to do a little handwork with a file to dress the opening and make the corners perfectly square after cutting it.

[JohnnyTest]

I was thinking scrollsaw as well, however I'm 1 scroll saw short. I'll keep you all posted on how this goes. Thanks again for the help.

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by JohnnyTest

I was thinking scrollsaw as well, however I'm 1 scroll saw short.

In that case I recommend a manual scrollsaw, AKA a coping saw.

As I'm sure you know, the key to success for small-scale work like this is an impeccable layout job. Thinking it through, here's how I would do it:

1. Clamp a metal switch plate to the wooden blank and use a marking knife (or X-Acto knife, or utility knife ... i.e., anything but a pencil) to lightly scribe the opening, using the metal plate as the template.

2. Drill pilot hole, thread coping saw blade through.

3. Cut the opening, staying just a whisker inside the scribed lines.

4. Dress the edges of the opening with a fine file by carefully removing all the waste material right up to the scribed lines.

Sounds fussy but with a little practice I'll bet you could do one in less than ten minutes.

[JohnnyTest]

I do have a coping saw, tonight I will be busy working on this. Thanks for the info.

[Steveanson]

Over the years, I have made many wooden switch plates as well as outlet covers. I have never placed any type of backing on these plates, except for a couple coats of urethane to seal the wood. Looking back into both Patrick Speilman and Pat Warners books, neither mention any kind of backing.

The easiest way I found to make them is to use a long length of 1/4 or 3/8" material, (say 4') cut to width. Edge route (45 deg) both sides on the router table. Now three simple jigs need made; The one for the back cavity is pretty straightforward. I made a hinged jig box for the front routing, using acutal switch/outlet plates to make the other jigs.

The hinged box was pretty easy. Cut a switch plate/outlet size piece of ply for a floor, and screw 1 X 2 sides and one end of your box floor, recessing the floor only the thickness of your plate material. (1/4 or 3/8") Hinge your templates on either side of the box, and flip the respective templated over your work piece. I used a dremel and small bit for the inside work, and was very satisfied with the results.

If you do not want rectangular plates, make your box jig longer, to route the top and bottom with a piloted panel bit.

Now, most of this was off the 'top of my head', and my old memory may have skipped something, but this will get you in the ball park. Matt