Never-fail mitered corners for smal boxes

[jhelfer]

Yep, that's what I need, a fool-proof method of cutting the 45 degree miter joints for making small boxes.

I simply cannot get mine to line up correctly.

How do yinze guys do it?

[Tom Miller]

You can cut your miters however you want, so long as you clean up with something like this:









Or use one of the fine miter sleds that will soon be posted.

Regards,
Tom

[jhelfer]

Thanks. I'm sure will help. I apreciate it.

.....

What exactly am looking at? {g}

[bigsteel15]

What exactly am looking at? {g}

If I'm not mistaken, that setup is referred to as a "shooting" sled.

[RodKirby]

Shooting BOARD

[bigsteel15]

Shooting BOARD

Thanks Rod, I knew sled was wrong but when I'm at work I seem have a lot of brain farts.

[jnesmith]

For box miters, (as opposed to frame miters) I use this simple sled. It has runners that ride in the MST.

I spent a good bit of time getting the 45 degree stop accurately set on my BT. It has held that setting for a while now.



I can cut very clean and tight miters with it.

[jhelfer]

John,

Now that looks interesting.

I realize that there are two major components to making a box miter fit right, exact 45 degree angles and exact lengths of all the sides.

Any suggestions for making sure the lengths turn out correct?

[drumpriest]

A long fence and a stop that will allow each of your sides to be exactly the same length. I do this at my SCMS, I have a 48" fence with a stop.

[boxman]

Tom,
I had never heard of a shooting board before, but it solved my problem of how to get tight frame miters. I need to buy a larger plane like the one in your photos. I'm searching ebay, mostly for Stanley's. Is there a size/model you would recommend? Thanks.
Matt

[Knottscott]

Shooting BOARD

...and silly me always thought they were talking about one of these:

[Tom Miller]

Tom,
I had never heard of a shooting board before, but it solved my problem of how to get tight frame miters. I need to buy a larger plane like the one in your photos. I'm searching ebay, mostly for Stanley's. Is there a size/model you would recommend? Thanks.
Matt

Matt, the plane in the photo is a Veritas Low-Angle Jack. A comparable-size Stanley would be a #5, while a #7 (jointer) would be good, too. Even though a block plane would do, it's good to have something with a bit of weight so the momentum will carry it through the cut.

Regards,
Tom

[LJR]

jhelfer, to get mitered corners in a box to come out right, the following works for me:

I have made "blocks" or "jigs" to hold stock at common angles for working on it. When I make such a block I will spend the time to make sure it's precise. It's easier for me to set the sawblade angle with one of these blocks probably because it's wider than a drafting triangle or square or what have you. So, I'll grab the 45 degree block and set the sawblade.

Using the clamp on the miter fence (set at exactly 90 degrees) to hold the stock make the first end cut in each box piece.

Set the stop block in the miter fence for lenght and using the clamp on the miter fence cut the box side piece to length.

That's my method to make sure the sides are equal length and the stock doesn't move during cutting. If my setup is right and I paid attention at this point I'm done and the box will fit very nicely. However, I also have a shooting board as Tom shows and you can't believe how well that works until you've actually tried it.