Installing Bench Vise

[SwingKing]

I received a Groz 9" bench vise for Christmas and I'm finally getting around to try and install it. Unfortunately, it didn't come with any instructions. I did some digging around and found some instructions on installing Record vises at http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...ecordvises.pdf. I also found an article on Fine Woodworking Network which had some good information.

Unfortunately, I'm still a little confused and I was wondering how others here had installed front vises. Here are a couple questions I have:

1. How far down are the jaw faces supposed to extend? The Record mounting info talks about drilling out three holes in the jaw faces for the guide rods and screw, which seemed odd to me.

2. How important is it to have the back face be flush with the front of the bench? The FWW article suggested adding a front rail to the bench with the back jaw mortised into it, so the back jaw is really the front of the bench. Have other people done this? Is it worth it over just having an independent back jaw face?

Any other tips/advise on installing one of these vises?

Thanks!

-- Ken

[9johnny5]

Ken -

I have a cheapie 8" vise from Lowes installed onto my bench, and it came with no directions either. I mounted it on the side of my bench, with the rear face/jaws to the vertical brace, but I had to drill out three holes for the two guide rods and threaded rod to extend into the rear jaw as the vise was closed.

As far as the alignment, I think the recommendation to mortice it to fit flush with the back jaw face is ideal. Cosmetically appealing, maybe not practical, if your installation is different than the one described. Then, with a block attached to the front top jaw, it would allow for the use of bench dogs / cleats, thereby extending the clamping range of your vise.

HTH,
johnny

[scorrpio]

The bench vise goal is to provide maximum support for your workpiece. Quite often, when working with edge of a piece, you clamp it in your bench vise horizontally or vertically, its face parallel to front apron of the bench. The other end is often secured by the tail vise, and front legs are often made flush with fron apron, and also have dog holes to better support the piece. The wider your vise jaws are vertically, the better they can hold a piece in this position.

Mounting back jaw of the vise flush with bench front means any long piece clamped in the vise on edge is supported by bench front along its entire length, with no gap.
A piece that is clamped face up between dogs will overhang the bench front by a lot less if back jaw is flush, again meaning better support.

[Tom Miller]

1. How far down are the jaw faces supposed to extend? The Record mounting info talks about drilling out three holes in the jaw faces for the guide rods and screw, which seemed odd to me.

The only reason to cut holes for the rods is if you have to (i.e. your apron is too tall).

2. How important is it to have the back face be flush with the front of the bench?

I find it useful to have the rear jaw flush with the bench, rather than protruding like it was at first.
In fact, I buried the rear jaw into the bench like so:








My vise is undersized, and due for an upgrade one of these days. So far, I like the Big Jorgy for its very rigid front face. My current vise requires a lot of "toe in" to counter its flex.


Regards,
Tom

[SwingKing]

Thanks

Thanks for the information and help. It does seem that I should try to incorporate the rear jaw into the workbench. The apron on my existing bench isn't very deep, so I don't think I'll need to drill holes for the rods.

Tom, I appreciate your posting the pics. They cleared up some questions and I also like the idea of putting a couple bench dog holes in the front jaw. The Groz does have the single pop-up dog, but I can see where having two there could be very useful.

Again, thanks for the help!

-- Ken