How thick should I make my router table?

[RickT]

I'm finally getting around to making my router table. I'm planning to mount it between the front and back rails in place of the accessory table. I ordered a router plate from Woodpeckers (great place!) and some other stuff from Woodhaven (another great place!) for my Porter-Cable 890 router. The plate is 3/8" thick. I ordered a sheet of white laminate from Menards and plan to stick it to one side of MDF. My question is: What thickness MDF should I use? I can find 3/4" at Menards and the BORG, but I could also pickup 1" or 1 1/8" MDF from a local sheet-good supplier: Alpine Plywood. Would 3/4" be thick enough? Routing out 3/8" would leave 3/8" rabbet to support the router plate with my PC 890 attached. Is that enough material to hold it? I don't want to watch helplessly as my router falls to the floor.[:0] Also, 1" MDF would provide more mass and cut down on possible vibration. But it's also heavier, and I don't want to add more weight my BT3 rails than necessary.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Rick

[Black wallnut]

Once upon a time I used 3/4" particle board faced both sides with melemine. It held up just fine for about two years with a router that is heavier than a PC 690. If it were me I'd use 3/4" MDF and then add 1"x4" supports glued and screwed to the underside where you are cutting your hole for the router. That should stiffen the MDF enough to last for years.

[Pappy]

I made mine by the NYW plans which called for 3/4" and 1/2" MDF glued together.

[Otter]

Just my opinion but here is what I did. YMMV, but it will never warp.

http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...chTerms=router

[LarryG]

For a smallish BT "wing" table, I'd use two layers of 3/4" baltic birch plywood, sandwiched together with their crowns facing opposite ways. Lighter and stiffer than MDF, the opposed crowns will keep it flat, and no substructure required.

[Tom Miller]

quote:Originally posted by LarryG

I'd use two layers of 3/4" baltic birch plywood

That's what I did -- and it's working well. It rests on some aluminum angle that's bolted to the inside of the rails.

I wouldn't worry about the weight of 2 layers of anything -- it'll help dampen vibrations. Another benefit to a thicker top is that you'll be able to route in some t-track later for add-ons.

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

Most plans seem to call for a lamination of 2 pieces of MDF amounting to 1.25 to 1.5" thick.

It would seem that a brace of 1x2 boards half notched where they cross would make the bottom as stiff without as much weight, but
as someone pointed out, running a dado for a T-track or miter track will make the top mighty thin in places if its just 3/4" thick.

[pilotlight]

I am building mine similar to the NYW plans but used 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF. We'll see!

Jamie

[RickT]

Thanks so much for the excellent input. I forgot to mention that I am planning to run T-track for fixtures, etc. I was thinking that 3/4" was a bit thin, but I was also concerned about putting a lot of weight in the "wing" of my BT3. The table will end up being about the same size as the portable Bench Dog router table, which isn't very big. I even purchased their fence because it fits perfectly. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again,
Rick

[messmaker]

I'm just thinking but two pieces of MDF and a 12-15lb router seems like a lot of weight on the side of a BT3.

[Anthony]

I made a 24 x 24 top two 1/2 inch pieces of mdf, covered both sides with 1/4 hardboard and edgebanded the whole thing. Its easier to move around( i made a short 12 inch high base that the top can be stacked onto when in use. Kind of a breakdown-able router table
Its pretty solid at that thickness and material. I never liked the BT3100 as a router table, too small and the fence wasnt so nice