Switch Stuck On

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  • Richard in Smithville
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 3014
    • On the TARDIS
    • BT 3100

    Switch Stuck On

    Yep, I had the dreaded switch problem. I took the switch apart, cleaned it all up, and now it works again. My question is this. Is there a more substantial type of switch that I can wire into my saw? I would really like to avoid this issue in the future.
    From the "deep south" part of Canada

    Richard in Smithville

    http://richardspensandthings.blogspot.com/
  • twistsol
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2919
    • Cottage Grove, MN, USA.
    • Ridgid R4512, 2x ShopSmith Mark V 520, 1951 Shopsmith 10ER

    #2
    I use this on everything that needs a safety cutoff switch. The box it is in is completely sealed so dust isn't an issue and the stop area is huge so you can't miss it.

    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401
    Chr's
    __________
    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
    A moral man does it.

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    • LCHIEN
      Internet Fact Checker
      • Dec 2002
      • 21179
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      Originally posted by Richard in Smithville
      Yep, I had the dreaded switch problem. I took the switch apart, cleaned it all up, and now it works again. My question is this. Is there a more substantial type of switch that I can wire into my saw? I would really like to avoid this issue in the future.
      there have been a history on BT3 switches. I'm assuming you have a BT3100 model from the early production.

      The problem with its switches was insufficient plating. The plating prevents arcing that happens when the switch is opened and the current interrupted. With insufficient plating the plating is eaten away and the base metal exposed - this eventually pits and gets gets welded together (actually bits of metal transfer and tries to become one) by the arcing, If the spring can overcome the bits of metal then it will open (turn off) but at some point the welding trnasfers too much metal and it sticks.

      Cleaning the switch will only break apart the weld and you'll start a new cycle faster than the original failed. It will stick again, and relatively soon, because the anti-arcing plating that was originally there is still gone.

      The solution is to get the replacement switch from Ryobi which has (maybe) thicker plating and definately a stronger spring and should prevent the problem altogether. This should be available for a toll free call with the serial number (actually just the manufacturing date will do, I think) from the plate on your saw).

      The toll free number is in the FAQ along with switch info, or you can also get the Ryobi toll free number on their website.
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 10-30-2009, 08:45 AM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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