Pull Behind Trailer

[Pappy]

Finally got a day off when I wasn't too tired to do anything but vegetate...

Got a start on the trailer to pull behind the trike. Primary purpose is to carry the wife's power chair but I will build an insert that will convert it for use as a mini camper.

Got the basic frame cut from 1x2 16 ga tubing and tacked together today. Still need to cut the rear piece and get the tubing for the tongue. The rear piece will be cut on a miter so the frame will be completely sealed. The deck is from an old lift I had for my truck.

[JimD]

Looks nice. If you still need other parts, one of the cheap HF trailers could be a good source. I was pleasantly surprised with my fold up model, and they have smaller ones. It could give you wheels, springs, axle, coupler, etc.

[atgcpaul]

Cool but I'm having a hard time imagining how that's big enough to be used as a mini camper? Like big enough to sleep in or just carry camping equipment?

When you roll your own, do you have to meet DOT standards or does it not matter?

[Pappy]

Looks nice. If you still need other parts, one of the cheap HF trailers could be a good source. I was pleasantly surprised with my fold up model, and they have smaller ones. It could give you wheels, springs, axle, coupler, etc.

I already have torsion half axles that will bolt to the frame. The wheels will be 12" aluminum customs.

Cool but I'm having a hard time imagining how that's big enough to be used as a mini camper? Like big enough to sleep in or just carry camping equipment?

When you roll your own, do you have to meet DOT standards or does it not matter?

The insert will have a fold out top that will become a platform to keep my tent off the ground. The foot print of the tent itself is 58" x 96". The rear of the box will be a pull out camp kitchen and the side away from the fold out will be pull out storage. There will be a tongue mounted rack for an ice chest. At least that is what is in my head right now. As much as possible/practical I will use torsion box construction to maintain strength and keep the weight down. Nothing is on paper so everything is subject to design changes.

Trailer standards vary greatly state to state. In Texas requirements are, to say the least, minimal and no inspection is required. (lights are not required if the tow vehicle lights are visible) Registration is my weight capacity and I will be registered at the minimum rate, axles are only rated at 500# for the pair. I will design/build with visibility in mind. Tail lights will be tombstone style to match the trike and LED clearance lights on the corners and possible an extra set mid way down the tongue.

[thiggy]

I can't quite visualize what you propose. Is your camper a slip-in attachment which will be used when the trailer is not used as an electric cart transport? I find myself in a quandary as far as carrying mobility equipment for my wife when we go to outdoor events such as tractor shows and antique engine shows. I have a 5X10 trailer which I can load with my tractor and her outdoor scooter, but we really like to use a golf cart for large outdoor shows. I will have to buy an 18 foot hauler for both cart and tractor (or two tractors), when funds materialize.

[Pappy]

Is your camper a slip-in attachment which will be used when the trailer is not used as an electric cart transport?

That's the idea. The ramp(s) will have to be removed when I go to camper mode.

[Pappy]

I got the tongue welded on a couple of days ago. The measurement variation from the front of the tongue to the ends of the front frame cross member is between 1/16" and 1/8" and that may be due to an out of square cut on the front of the tongue. To get an accurate measurement I would have to tape the front end off, mark it, grind it square, and remeasure. Maybe, maybe not. Not sure it is worth the effort.

Grabbed some clamps and did a 'mock up' today and didn't like what I saw.





I'm happy with the frame/tongue/deck set up, but with the axles I have bolted to the bottom of the frame the deck height is 15 1/2". At that height, it would take about 6' ramps to be able to drive the wheel chair onto the trailer.

Options at this point are to weld up sub frames that will mount the axles outside of and above the deck frame or buy different axles that have adjustable start angles.

Draw back to option 1 is increasing the width of the trailer. From my research, optimum outside to outside of the tires for a 'tag along' trailer is ~42". As configured now, I am at 43" and moving the axles out and up would increase that 12-14".

The best solution would be to change the axles but that costs! The axles I have were $230+ shipped and adjustable axles would run about $315. I put the ones I have on CL today at $200 and if they sell I will bite the bullet for the upgrade. My hopes for a quick sale aren't optimistic.

In the mean time, I am going to mount the deck to the frame and pick up a small roll of aluminum welding wire to practice welding aluminum for some repairs/modifications to the deck as well as building the ramp(s).

[Pappy]

No bites on the CL ad in 7 days, even a spam response or lowball offer, so I doubt the axles will sell. Since I don't want to widen the track of the trailer, it looks like I will have to live with the deck height. Looking at ramps on line I ran across these. The curved upper section should make loading easier.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...ramp-pack-of-1

Out of stock on line and the closest (ONLY) I could find a pair was in Kerrville, about a 200 mi round trip. Made the drive this morning. Even with the gas, it was still cheaper than I could have made them. I may look at shortening them at the joint if I don't need the entire length and it can be easily done.

A few days ago I picked up the coupler and a wiring 'Y' harness for the lights. Still need to build form(s) for the fenders and order clearance lights and wheels.

Football dominates the rest of today, but I hope to get it close to roll ready tomorrow. Hardest part will be loading the chair to find the mount point for the axles to give me about 20# tongue weight.

[Pappy]

Good day today. The last of the welding is done except for making brackets for the ramps and ice chest. These will be set up to bolt to the tongue and be interchangeable.

Best guess by weighing the frame, ramps, and wheel/axle assembly then adding in the weight of the char is about 315#. reading through the Curt MFG catalog the tongue weight should be between 7% and 12%. That gives me a range of 22# to 38#. As tested today I had a tongue weight of 24#.

Even with the addition of fenders, railings, the required tie down brackets, stabilizer legs, and the difference in the weight of the final version of the ramps and the ice chest I have enough wiggle room that I'm not worried about the final tongue weight.

Test load from the front


Test load from the rear


Tested tongue weight


I wanted to use zinc plated carriage bolts to attach the axles and no one in town had any 7/16" . I had Fastenal order 8 for me in grade 5 and used 2 standard bolts in each axle until they arrive so I can move it around.

Need to make a profile pattern of the ramp sections and move the trailer to the street so I can determine the final ramp configuration. I did unbolt one of the ramp joints and it is going to be fairly easy to modify them. Just need GOOD patterns so I get the cut angles and new bolt holes right.

[JimD]

Looks good Don.

[capncarl]

Could you install a toungue jack to lift the front of the trailer to change the angle/height for the ramps?

[Pappy]

Could you install a toungue jack to lift the front of the trailer to change the angle/height for the ramps?

Problem is that the ramps are actually too high. With the ramps on the ground about 8" below the barn floor the arch of the upper section was still too much. The goal is to be able to load the chair with the trailer hooked to the trike.

Plan to use these on the back corners for camping and another one on the tongue.

http://www.amazon.com/2-Stabilizer-J...abilizer+jacks

[jking]

Nice work. I wondered how much the trailer would weigh. Is it the picture, or, do the wheels actually splay as much as looks in you load test picture?

[Pappy]

Nice work. I wondered how much the trailer would weigh. Is it the picture, or, do the wheels actually splay as much as looks in you load test picture?

They were just held on with a pair of clamps on each one, along the outside frame rail, for the test. My only objective was to find the front to rear positioning for the tongue weight.

[Pappy]

Have the next 3 days off so hope to get a bunch done. First job is to figure out which ball mount I need for the trike and get it on order. Curt makes several versions of the Class I and II mounts but no one local carries other than the most commonly used of them. Solution is to build a wood mock up of the ones I think might work. (Pics to be added this afternoon.) I have the 'shaft' cut but need to add the plate that holds the ball and drill the shaft for the various pin hole locations. Then I can slide it into the receiver of the hitch and see which one works best.

(Edit) Pics of the ball mount mock up. The markings on the vertical section show the rise and length of each of the mounts I am considering. I measured the rise wrong on this one and had to make another 'bar', but it is essentially the same, just with a longer vertical section.







The frame is coming along. All the parts are cut and welded in place. Have to do some grinding on some bad welds and finish welding all the joints. Once done I want the frame fairly well sealed. It is still light enough that I can move it alone.



Next step is to build the molds and lay up the custom glass fenders. Once done, the whole rig will be painted to match the trike.

Still debating whether to between 12" or 13" wheels/tires and going steel or custom aluminum wheels. I can't match the rear wheels on the trike in either size so I am leaning toward steel, painted and pinstriped to match, mainly because of the cost.